I can tell you without pause or hesitation that absolutely one of my favorite things to eat here in Argentina is a sandwich. A sandwich you say? Yes, a sandwich. Well actually two types of sandwiches: choripan and bondiola (quite possibly in that order although I go back and forth between the two). These two gems are widely available throughout Buenos Aires and really all of Argentina in fact. Having said that, there are, if you’re from here, some go to places to eat choripan or bondiola.
Costanera, synonymous with the terms choripan and boniola, runs along the Rio del Plata. It lines the coast of this wide river that separates Argentina from their neighbor Uruguay. Costanera is divided into two parts: Costanera Norte and Costanera Sur or North Costanera and South Costanera. Today I’m going to be focusing on Costanera Sur. Essentially it’s a long walkway almost always chalk full of people strolling about. It’s conveniently located near the swanky neighborhood of Puerto Madero with such attractions as the Puente de la Mujer and other interesting sights. It also runs right near the Ecological reserve which is a lovely place to rent bikes and spend an afternoon. After spending an afternoon exploring you’re guaranteed to be hungry and Costanera Sur is the place you want to be.
Almost immediately upon arrival you’ll smell that distinct aroma of greasy goodness that comes from street food. The little ‘carritos’ or rundown food carts line the walkway and there’s constant grilling going on all day. The choices are typically limited to these sandwiches with some cold drinks and plenty of sauces and toppings to go along with them. It’s like a better and much more delicious version of fast food. Chorizo, translated to sausage, is fatty and made up of course pork meat and minimal spices. Bondiola on the other hand is a slice of what you might call a pork steak that comes from the neck of the pig. As far as seasonings go it’s typically limited to salt and pepper with some fresh lime. What they do after grilling the meat is sandwich it in between a crusty slice of bread and leave you to condiment it to your hearts content. The sauces include chimichurri, salsa criolla, ketchup, mustard, mayo and many more.
For me there is nothing better than sinking my teeth into this delectable treat. While it isn’t the most refined dish here in Argentina it sure is good. The combination of meaty, salty, saucy goodness is absolutely epic. You can also justify the extra calories with a spin around the ecological reserve. It’s a great guilty pleasure that I don’t feel so guilty about. And the best part about it? It’s perfectly acceptable to follow up with a steak dinner later that night.
Steak Buenos Aires 