Asado en Buenos Aires: Sin Pan, No es Asado

Cada Argentino que se sienta a la mesa para degustar un buen Asado, tiene en cuenta que a parte de la mejor carne y achuras se tiene que encontrar con un elemento inflatable al momento de comenzar a pensar en un Choripan (sándwich de Chorizo) ó en acompañar un jugoso bocado de carne… obviamente el PAN!

La frase es costumbre cada vez que escasea o no está a la vista el bollo de harina horneado… “sin pan, no es Asado”

Por costumbre los argentinos tenemos incorporada la inclusión del Pan sobre la mesa en casi todas las opciones de nuestra gastronomía. Las excepciones se dan cuando el principal ingrediente es la masa pan, como por ejemplo las Pizzas ó las Empanadas.

El Choripan es uno de los principales motivos por lo cual el Pan debe estar presente en la mesa del Asado Argentino casi siempre embebido en chimichurri. El clásico sandwich de chorizo funciona como una de las estrellas en la gran obra del director ó mejor dicho el Parrillero!

También es parte esencial de los otros sándwiches clásicos del Asado Argentino como el Morcipan, Vacíopan, sándwich de Bondiola de Cerdo ó de Lomo de Ternera.

Sin descartar que cuando estás comiendo la Ensalada Mixta (lechuga, tomate y cebolla) un bocado de pan también es necesario, ni hablar de las Provoletas crujientes por fuera y bien calientes… necesitan un Pan bien crocante y con buena miga esponjosa!

Alguna vez he pasado por el mal momento de no tener Pan para acompañar un Asado, muchos intentaron reemplazarlo por galletitas de salvado ó de agua, pan lactal ó de miga dulce (pan de viena), pan de hamburguesas o de panchos (hot dog)… pero no el pan francés, una flauta crocante es la mejor opción.

También me pasó que alguna vez hicimos un Asado con amigos y no encontramos ninguna Panadería (Comercio que vende el Pan) abierta en ese momento, con un poco de suerte encontramos en el lugar harina leudante (harina con levadura) y decidimos hacer nuestro pan casero y a la Parrilla, no fue el mejor que habíamos probado, pero… insisto, Sin Pan, no es Asado!

 

 

ASADO EN BUENOS AIRES: Choripan y Bondiola

Te puedo decir sin duda que unas de mis comidas favoritos es un sándwich. Un sándwich te preguntas? Si, un sándwich. Bueno de echo, dos tipos de sándwiches: choripán y bondiola (puede que en esa orden no, pero los dos me encantan igual). Hay de estas dos gemas en todo Buenos Aires, y de echo, en toda Argentina. Y ya que lo dije, si sos de acá, seguro que tenes donde a comer un choripan o una bondiola.

 La costanera, sinónimo con el choripan y bondiola, corre a través del Rio de la Plata. Esta alineado con la costa de este gran río que separa a la Argentina de su vecino Uruguay. La costanera esta divido en dos partes: Costanera Norte y Costanera Sur. Hoy me voy a enfocar mas en la Costanera Sur. Esencialmente es un largo camino y casi siempre esta lleno de gente. Convenientemente, esta situado en el barrio de Puerto Madero, con lindas atracciones como el Puente de la Mujer y otros lugares interesantes. También correo cerca de la reserva Ecológica que esta ubicado en un hermoso lugarcito donde se alquilan bicicletas y donde se puede pasar la tarde. Después de pasar la tarde explorando, seguro que te va a dar hambre y la Costanera Sur es el lugar donde querés estar.

Casi inmediatamente al llegar vas a oler eres aroma distintivo que viene de la calles. Los pequeños carritos de comida están por casi toda la vereda y hay asados casi todo el día. Las opciones se limitan un poco a estos sándwiches con unas gaseosas frías y muchas salsas de acompañamiento. Es una mejor y mas rica opción de comida rápida. El chorizo es grasa echa de carne de puerco y especias mínimas. Y la bondiola es un pedazo de que le podes llamar asado de puerco que viene del cuello de cerdo. Y cuando se viene al sazonado es mas que nada sal y pimiento con limón fresco. Lo que hacen después de asar la carne es un sándwich con un pedazo crujiente de pan y lo demás te dejan condimentarlo a vos. Las salsas son de chimichurri, salsa criolla, kétchup, mostaza mayonesa y entre otras.

Para mi no hay nada mejor que un bocadillo de este sándwich. Mientras no es el platillo mas fino, aquí en Argentina es súper rico. La combinación de carne salteada es absolutamente buena. Y además podes justificar las calorías extras con la reserva ecológica. Es un buen culpable placerque no me hace sentir tan culpable. Y lo mejor de todo? Es que es completamente aceptable comer un asado después de eso.

 

Steak Buenos Aires: Choripan and Bondiola

 I can tell you without pause or hesitation that absolutely one of my favorite things to eat here in Argentina is a sandwich. A sandwich you say? Yes, a sandwich. Well actually two types of sandwiches: choripan and bondiola (quite possibly in that order although I go back and forth between the two). These two gems are widely available throughout Buenos Aires and really all of Argentina in fact. Having said that, there are, if you’re from here, some go to places to eat choripan or bondiola.

 

Costanera, synonymous with the terms choripan and boniola, runs along the Rio del Plata. It lines the coast of this wide river that separates Argentina from their neighbor Uruguay. Costanera is divided into two parts: Costanera Norte and Costanera Sur or North Costanera and South Costanera. Today I’m going to be focusing on Costanera Sur. Essentially it’s a long walkway almost always chalk full of people strolling about. It’s conveniently located near the swanky neighborhood of Puerto Madero with such attractions as the Puente de la Mujer and other interesting sights. It also runs right near the Ecological reserve which is a lovely place to rent bikes and spend an afternoon. After spending an afternoon exploring you’re guaranteed to be hungry and Costanera Sur is the place you want to be.

Almost immediately upon arrival you’ll smell that distinct aroma of greasy goodness that comes from street food. The little ‘carritos’ or rundown food carts line the walkway and there’s constant grilling going on all day. The choices are typically limited to these sandwiches with some cold drinks and plenty of sauces and toppings to go along with them. It’s like a better and much more delicious version of fast food. Chorizo, translated to sausage, is fatty and made up of course pork meat and minimal spices. Bondiola on the other hand is a slice of what you might call a pork steak that comes from the neck of the pig. As far as seasonings go it’s typically limited to salt and pepper with some fresh lime. What they do after grilling the meat is sandwich it in between a crusty slice of bread and leave you to condiment it to your hearts content. The sauces include chimichurri, salsa criolla, ketchup, mustard, mayo and many more.

For me there is nothing better than sinking my teeth into this delectable treat. While it isn’t the most refined dish here in Argentina it sure is good. The combination of meaty, salty, saucy goodness is absolutely epic. You can also justify the extra calories with a spin around the ecological reserve. It’s a great guilty pleasure that I don’t feel so guilty about.  And the best part about it? It’s perfectly acceptable to follow up with a steak dinner later that night.  

 

Steak Buenos Aires: Lo de Bebe

Situated not more than several meters off Scalabrini Ortiz on Charcas is a small but good parrilla called Lo de Bebe where you can get a steak in Buenos Aires for a great price.  What started off as a hole in the wall place to get some Argentine asado has turned into a kitchy place to sit and have dinner with friends and family.

I first came across this Argentine parrilla by chance.  A professor of mine from the states was visiting his family in Buenos Aires and he invited me and two other students out for a nice dinner.  With good intent of where we were going we set off.  Twenty minutes pass and we were unable to find the original restaurant where we were going to eat.  With our stomachs growling and our feet growing weary the smells wafting out from this tiny parrilla were calling to us.  We agreed without hesitation that it was meant to be and so we walked in and sat down.

From the moment you step inside your eyes are met with a whirlwind of colorful decoration.  The chairs and walls are painted in a classically fileteado porteño motif with phrases and sayings written in swirly fonts.  The chairs and the tables are also brightly decorated and they’re mismatched with gives this small parrilla an eclectic and homey feel.

We ordered a bottle of wine and my professor quickly listed off a mountain of food that he wanted us to try and the waiter was off to place our order.  In looking around I noticed that there was a fair amount of Argentines eating here (which is typically a good sign for a neighborhood joint).  Plates of meat were brought out to us on small sliver trays as they were ready off the grill.  As my professor pointed out, they have a wide selection of meats to choose from the parrilla.  First to arrive was the provoleta.  It was slightly crunchy for my taste but still salty and flavorful as a provoleta should be.  Next came our morcilla and chorizo.  The chorizo was quite yummy, it’s hard to mess up a classic sausage like that.  The morcilla however wasn’t a favorite, normally I’m a big fan of morcilla but this one just didn’t do it for me.   When it came time for the star of the show, the vacio, we decided that we needed to order another plate because it wasn’t going to be enough for all of us to share.  Presentation also wasn’t a focus of theirs.  That’s not to say that it wasn’t a good meal.  In the end we left satisfied and full.

Fast forward a year and a half and I’m back in Buenos Aires, now living here permanently.  One sunny afternoon I looked in my fridge and realized that it was bare and that I was going to have to venture out in search of food.  My roommate mentioned that there was a delicious parrilla not too far away and that I might give that a shot.  She joined me on our walk and as we’re approaching I saw the familiar colorful tables and smelled that delicious grilled meat aroma.  As it turns out, Lo de Bebe is right around the corner from my apartment and they do take out! I’m not ashamed to admit that this has turned into a regular place for me to pick up a choripan or a bondiola sandwich on my way home when I have no desire to cook.  I think this is probably their biggest draw for me.  Essentially they combined the carts down on Costanera with a restaurant.  While the flavors are authentic, the style in which they are served has been updated for convenience.