Argentina Steak: Morcilla in Buenos Aires

In a traditional Argentine asado (steak dinner), you will find that the main entree is preceded by a series of “aperitivos”. These can vary from the delectable provoleta (grilled provolone cheese) or your choice of several different kinds of sausages (chorizos, rinones, chinchulines y mollejas) generally comprised of achuras, or offals. Perhaps the most popular amongst Argentines would be the morcilla, known in English as blood sausage.

This particular sausage tends to be difficult for some to swallow as it is most definitely not for the squeamish. I was lucky enough to try my first morcilla without knowing what it was. Had I known what I was getting into as I sat down for my first authentic asado in Buenos Aires, I may not have given it a chance, but now that I have tried it I continue to go back for more. If you can handle the unique texture of the this “achura”, you will be rewarded by a multitude of flavors hitting you at once. This mixture of pig’s blood, ground up pork, salt, pepper, garlic, onion, paprika, rice, bread crumbs, and nuts truly is one of a kind.

Be prepared, however, to shop around to find a morcilla that appeases your taste buds as recipes vary from butcher to butcher. Expect the sausages to be very dark in color, ranging from dark reddish brown to very dark brown.

These Argentine embutidos (sausages) will come pre-cooked and, therefore, do not require very much cook time making them ideal for an appetizer. At a Buenos Aires parrilla (Buenos Aires steakhouse) morcillas are cooked on lower heat, so as to not break the casing, until the outside becomes crispy and the inside reaches a pleasantly warm temperature. You will not need to add any sort of sauce or seasoning since the ingredients within provide all of the enticing flavors. Morcilla criolla (the larger of two sizes (the other being bombon)) has also been known to be served as a sandwich called morcipan. You can also find morcilla dulce which adds raisins and more nuts to the mix for a sweeter taste.

 

Argentina Steak: Chorizo in Buenos Aires

Whether it be chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage) or salchicha parrillera (a longer, thinner version of chorizo), a traditional Argentine asado (steak dinner) always starts with a pre-meal sausage. The kingpin of these choices is the chorizo as it is loved by almost everyone. Argentines like to begin a meal with these “embutidos” in order to set the tone for the evening which is bound to involve a seemingly endless supply of some of the finest steaks in the world. Normally, people limit themselves to a single chorizo so as to not ruin their appetite for the marathon to come, however those with plenty of room to spare will go for two because they are just that tasty.

More often than not these sausages are stuffed with pork and various spices such as salt, pepper and garlic, though other variations involve replacing the pork with beef or the addition of paprika, sweet red pepper, and hot chilli pepper flakes. Much like when shopping for morcilla, you will have to find the right butcher for you as recipes change from shop to shop. Look for the chorizos to be light pink in color, and try to avoid those with little gray spots because that suggests that they may have mixed older meat into the “embutido”. It is also recommended that you ask the butcher when the sausages were put together just to be sure. Grilling sausage in Buenos Aires requires a slightly different technique than that of coveted Argentine steaks.

Normally the asador (grill master) cooks over high heat and very quickly, but the chorizo needs to be cooked over lower heat so that the casing remains intact. Although it is up to you whether you want to puncture the casings with the intention of making a dryer sausage. Just be careful when you choose to do so as you may induce a hot geyser of grease to launch from your “embutido”. The chorizo is most commonly eaten with a fork and a knife when served at a Buenos Aires parrilla (Buenos Aires steakhouse), but it is most popularly eaten as a sandwich known as a choripan and topped with an original Argentine sauce called chimichurri.

 

Best Buenos Aires Steakhouses: La Cholita, Recoleta

In Recoleta La Cholita is easy to access being right off Santa Fe. In fact, that is how I came across this solid traditional Buenos Aires parrilla. It’s a good option for those looking for a place to eat a good meal at a reasonable price with friends. Their proportions are abundant ,so you can bet on getting a good amount of food for your money. I recommend having the provoleta completa which comes in a cast iron skillet with baked provolone cheese, toped with onions, oregano, tomato and a drizzle of olive oil.

I also really enjoyed the salchicha parrillera which is a very flavorful grilled sausage that has a more meaty texture compared to other argentine sausages. As far as argentine steak is concerned la parillada completa (complete grill) a great choice. The dish includes three types of sausages and all kinds of parts of the cow. La prillada is large enough to feed anywhere from 2-5 people and is one of the meals I most recommend.  Other recommended favorites would be the bife de lomo (loin steak)  and bife de Chorizo (sausage steak)  which are served with a side of french fries and calabaza. The fact that the dishes include sides is what sold me, as many restaurants in Buenos Aires often don’t include sides with their entrees.  I don’t recommend it to those looking for a relaxed quite dinner, the tables are really close to one another and the atmosphere is loud.

Their menu on the other hand has many options, they don’t only offer steak but also appetizers and you have the option of building your own salad. I recommend trying the Ensalada la Cholita, which is a bed mixed greens topped with mushrooms, tomatoes, onions, diced peppers and a large piece of chicken pillared. Considered a favorite by not only locals but tourists La Cholita gets very busy at all times of the day, usually requiring a reservation to secure yourself a spot. One of the downsides of this parrilla is that credit cards are not accepted, they do all their transactions in cash only.  The menu is, over all, very reasonably priced so if you’re looking for some good casual dining, do take into consideration this local joint.